We Stumbled on this music video shot by Joel Byron entirely on Kodak Tri-x using a Canon 1014XL.
The beauty isn’t just that’s it’s on super 8 but the fact that it was shot all on one real with no editing!
This is for straight8 which “invites anyone anywhere to make a short film on one cartridge of super 8 — without editing. The first time filmmakers see their film is at its premiere at a cinema!”
The band are clearly insane but in a good way. A very good way!
Just when you thought all ideas relating to analogue photography were over, Lomography do it again with the release of the Spinner 360!
It couldn’t be more simple; load the Spinner 360 with a roll of 35mm (ISO 400 is best), pull the cord to charge the spin and then let go!
You’ll get around 8 shots on one roll and with the release of the Digitaliza you can scan those bad-boy negatives on any flatbed neg scanner. This is perfect as the Spinner 360 shoots over the sprokets and the Digitaliza lets you scan the sprokets as well!
What’s more is you can manually turn the camera for long night-time exposures or pull the cord less if you want less of a turn. Maybe 180 instead of 360?
The Holga 120 WPC may seem a little odd or ridiculous but it actually takes pretty stunning shots as Rob will show (and tell)
The first thing to understand about the Holga 120wpc is that it is wide. Really, really, really wide. So wide in fact that the plastic of the body around the pinhole opening may show up in your images creating a hard vignette.
Some people assume that the protruding plastic flange which acts as the lens cap holder is the thing that gets in the way, but from my experience it’s not. Hack away at the plastic around the pinhole opening with a sharp craft knife to open it up. Check this picture.
The protruding plastic flange may not have any more use than to serve as a sort of hood to shield the pinhole from sideways light and to hold the lens cap, but it also can be used to hold a filter in place. I have shaved away a bit of the inside of the flange and now a 49mm filter fits with a little bit of force. It doesn’t result in noticeable additional vignetting, but stacking two filters will. It would probably be a lot easier to glue a stepping ring to the front of the camera rather than forcing the filter on the flange.
The extreme wideness means that you need to get in closer than you might think to your subject. Experiment and get close and then closer than you think you should be. As with all pinhole cameras, the depth of field is massive, so everything in front of it will be in focus.
Exposure will be something that you will be able to start guessing after a while in given situations.
In Australia in bright sun, I found that 1/2 sec is around about OK for ISO100 film. It might sound obvious, but meter off the scene using a light meter or camera with a light meter in it and go from there. To work out the reciprocal shutter speed, simply work out the difference between the f stop you metered with and f135 (or so). For example using f16 will require a 6 stop adjustment (count f22, f32, f45, f64, f90, f128 close enough to 6 stops). Just remember to meter off at f16, take a note of the shutter speed and calculate +6 stops. Alternatively, print off a table from www.mrpinhole.com
To get good cloud streaks, flatten out the sea, make waterfalls smooth and make people and moving vehicles disappear, you may want to slow down the exposure time by using a neutral density filter. I use an ND08 (3 stops) and ND1.8 (6 stops), but find I use the ND1.8 more often to get into the 1minute + exposure times. For anything more than 1/2 sec, remember to compensate for reciprocity failure if required.
A general rule of thumb is to keep the camera totally level using the spirit level in the camera. However, sometimes the scene may call for something else like having the horizon in the top or bottom third of the frame. Sure, the images are so huge from this camera that cropping is no problem, but it can be done in camera as well with the help of a tripod with angle markings. Set up the camera so it’s level and then simply angle the tripod head up or down 20 degrees. This should theoretically get your horizon somewhere around the top or bottom third. If it doesn’t, then crop or try again.
Helene “Eleni” Barrette has been traveling and living abroad for over 19 years and is originally from the Ottawa region in Canada.
I fell for her pinhole shots taken with a Pinholga and asked for a guest review. She said yes!
In her words:
“I’ve always been a fan of B&W. So much one can do with it, so many results
you can achieve. I like to be in control of the final result from the start.
B&W offers me that but color doesn’t.
“I’ve been using my PinHolga for a little over a year now. I’m far from being
an expert with it or in pinhole in general….but I love it. Since every
Holga is unique, I assume that every PinHolga has the same attribute.
“I’ve learned though that a pinhole camera is very wide angle so get really
close to your subject. When you think you are close enough, get closer!
Also, the most unusual the camera’s point-of-view, the more interesting the
photo. In my experience, what works best for me is 8 sec on a sunny day.
Then for other situation, I bracket, increasing by one f/stop at a time.
(8-16-32-64-128…)”
Favorite film? Kodak TRI-X girl, not others match it for me.
Top 3 cameras? Nikon FM2 (like to be in control!), Agfa Isolette (a 1940 something medium format camera.), PinHolga (obviously!)
Why analogue?
For me, I prefer the imperfections of films to the “perfection” of a digital
photograph. I dislike the artificial look of added textures and distress
look .
Ultimately, it’s a matter of choice. I much prefer to be in a traditional
darkroom than in front of a computer! Nothing like seeing a photo emerge in
the dev!
I stumbled on Sander Meisner, 30, in our Flickr Group and fell in love quickly with his 6X6 Mamiya C33 shots. I love many styles of photography and lately I’m really into quiet, well-framed simple shots with great depth and lines.
I get the feeling that Federico will also be into these shots.
In Saner’s words:
“I photograph the urban contemporary landscape around me at night. I like the empty, overlooked spaces in
the urban landscape. I try to find mundaine places and objects that speak to me somehow and photograph them. I want to capture the eerie, lonely atmosphere certain places in our cities have at night. The places that are full of live during the day, turn into melancholic, sad, empty and sometimes eerie places at night.”
Why shoot on film?
I shoot film for the look it gives my work. Film looks less plastic, has got more depth to it, looks
more alive and seems to generate more emotion and feeling in a shot compared to digital.
I also like the fact that (especially when shooting with my Mamiya C33) it makes me work for a shot, I don’t like to waste frames so I really think before setting up a shot and since I can’t check the result straight away I do this very patiently and precise, often moving my tripod around a certain part of a scene inch by inch after I have determined the area I want to take the shot in.
Three favourite analogue cameras?
Mamiya C33, Nikon FE and the Lubitel-2
Three favourite analogue films?
Fujifilm PRO 160s, Kodak 160NC and Fujifilm RTP T64.
What makes the Mamya C33 so good?
It is completely mechanical, so not many things can break (this also makes me think more about my shots.) It is build like a tank, made completely out of iron and is very heavy, which I like, it makes me more confident when setting up a shot and doing a long exposure when there is a lot of wind. I really like TLR’s and this is one of two (the other being the Koni-Omega 6×7) that has interchangable lenses. The interchangable lenses are a pretty unique feature amongst TLR’s and this makes this camera very nice to work with for
me. The lenses are very nice, sharp lenses with very close focussing when needed. I put my body in my backpack, my three lenses, some film and a cable release. Take my tripod and cycle around Amsterdam’s industry and office areas in the middle of the night looking for places to shoot. I love it.
If you’re ever walking through Soho and have a spare minute you have to go to Sendean Cameras
Not only will they be able to repair any of your analogue cameras but they also sell second hand cameras fully repaired and with a warranty. Yes the prices are a little high but you can see what you’re getting and know that the camera will actually work!
Go and marvel at their camera selection! The shop is in St Anne’s Court squashed between Dean Street and Wardour Street.
For Belgian photographer Romuald photography is:
“just a mechanical toy that makes images, all the rest is nonsense”.
I quite like his harsh straight-forward attitude. What I like more however is his collection of analogue cameras!
“it’s nearly impossible for me to try all my camera’s, I have more then 300, I collect since 3 years visiting Belgian flea markets to create a huge collection, I’m still building up!”
What’s more is he has a good selection of images shot on the great Horizon camera
Made in 1970, the Yashica Mat 124G is largely seen as a entry level medium format 6X6 camera. This Rolleiflex clone is a beauty to use, quick, light and with an inbuilt light meter. There’s something very special about shooting on a twin lens reflex, it’s less intrusive than a slr and people act differently in front of one. Hunt around for one and after a quick service you will not notice the difference in quality between this and a more expensive Rolleiflex.
I got mine precisely so I could explore medium format photography. Quite soon after I bought it I was given a Mamiya RB67 and that was then my camera of choice for 120 photography. In recent weeks however I have taken the Yashica out and fell in love with it! It’s lighter, prettier and the photos are great quality. If you can get your hands on one don’t hesitate to hand over the cash!
You can’t really have a blog about all things analogue without mentioning Lomography! Especially as in the future there will be lots of photographers on analoguemasters who will either be inspired by or active Lomographers.
To cut a long story short Lomography is a photographic society based in Vienna but with “Embassies” worldwide. Started in the early Nineties with the discovery of the Russian Lomo LC-A Lomography has grown into a large worldwide community. They now produce their own Lomographic cameras and accessories and they were one of the first websites were people could upload photos, and create their own lomohomes and interact with other people.
Much more can be discovered at their newly updated website: www.lomography.com
Part of Lomography’s visual identity is the explosion of analogue snap-shots displayed as Lomowalls. All their gallery stores have meters of lomowalls on the walls and at any given time there is an exhibition somewhere of 1000s of fantastic lomographs discplayed on huge Lomowalls!
Analogue masters is a showcase corner on the web for all things analogue. Inspiration is from photography but we want to stretch the blog into the field of music and film-making while reviewing cameras, other analogue groups, photographic societies, shops, analogue thinkers and even camera repair people! We would love other people to contribute especially as we're based in London and don’t want the content to be too UK-driven. So if you have a shop, band, photographer or exhibition to showcase email us! All the best and we hope you enjoy!
